Oh, Christmas Tree

Oh, Christmas Tree Pattern and Tutorial

Making Christmas Tree quilt blocks is a fun and simply way to add cheer to your home. You can turn these blocks into a simple mug rug (perfect for gifts), create a festive table runner or even make a bunch for your very own Christmas Quilt! How ever many you decide to make, I’m sure we can all agree that these blocks are timeless and fun! Be sure to check out the
video tutorial at the bottom of this article!

This post contains affiliate links for your convenience. ? Read my full disclosure policy here.

MATERIALS LIST

BASIC SEWING SUPPLIES NEEDED

Oh Christmas Tree - I love using the Add-A-Quarter Ruler when Foundation Paper Piecing!

Prelude to piecing

To make the Christmas tree foundation paper pieced block, you’ll print your patterns on copy  paper. Take a look at the one inch mark and measure it with your ruler. I really like to transfer my copies onto foundation paper. I like the Perfect Piecing paper. It is really  transparent and rips out easily. I also like using the Add a quarter ruler. It has a nice quarter  inch which makes foundation paper piecing really easy using this ruler.

Oh Christmas Tree Pattern - Using a Daylight Wafer 1 Lightbox and cutting mat is a perfect way to make quick work of all your FPP patterns!

Starting the Christmas Tree Block

Each of these blocks have seven pieces and we’re going to start in numerical order. Piece  number one is the tree trunk and piece number two is the background. To start the block you’re  going to have the right side of your fabric be right against the backside of your foundation  paper piece pattern. And then you’re going to put block number two fabric (right sides together  with fabric number one), directly behind fabric number one. Sew the line between number one  and number two.

Now, fold that pattern paper piece back and use our add a quarter ruler. This little lip helps  hold it against that folded edge and gives you a one quarter inch seam allowance. Cut off the  excess fabric and then the seam roller to press out that seam.

Oh Christmas Tree Pattern - Using a Daylight Wafer 1 Lightbox and cutting mat is a perfect way to make quick work of all your FPP patterns!

Just keep sewing

Next we’re going to work through the remaining pieces. 

You’ll line it up to make sure you have at least a quarter of an inch past the line. And make sure  that you have enough fabric all around the edges also. 

We’re going to fold that back and trim away the excess and we’ll use our seam roller and press that back. And piece number four is done just like  piece number three.  

Using the Daylight Wafer 1 Lightbox comes in really handy for things like this. You can see all  the pieces behind you, even when there’s multiple layers. 

Pieces five, six and seven are larger and you might find it helpful to test the fabric placement,  before sewing. To do this, simply use sewing pins in lieu of stitches. Test the placement, make  adjustments if necessary and proceed with sewing.

Oh Christmas Tree Pattern - Since I used Perfect Piecing Foundation Paper - tearing away the pattern is easy!

Finishing the block

Now all that’s left is to trim away the excess fabric around the perimeter of the block. Now  you’re not going to want to trim right on the exterior line. You’ll give yourself a one quarter inch  outside of the line. I’m using the Add a quarter ruler for that I can see the lip of the one quarter  inch mark. 

Now all that’s left is to rip out the paper because the stitch length was 1.5″. It really makes a nice perforation on the paper. And this  paper is the perfect piecing paper because it’s a lot thinner than regular paper.  As a bonus – Perfect Paper is super easy to rip out!  

This was a super easy and quick foundation paper piece block. Be sure to get a copy of the  pattern and start making your own Christmas Trees today! 

Happy Stitches, 

Nicole Moore Blog Post Signature

How to Install Purse Feet

Purse Feet are some of the easiest additions to install into your Handmade Bag, Tote or Purse!  These little gems can take your handmade bags and purses to the next level while keeping the bottom of your item off surfaces.  I love how this hardware comes in different sizes and finishes too!  Let me show you how to install purse feet and you can start adding these to your handmade goodies too!

Purse Feet are some of the easiest additions to install into your Handmade Bag, Tote or Purse! Let me show you how to install purse feet and you can start adding these to your handmade goodies too! #Sewing #DIY #PurseFeet #VideoTutorial #Totes #Bag #Handmade #Designer #Custom #BagHardware #Purses #SewMuchMoore #SewMuchMooreInStore

 

This post contains affiliate links for your convenience. ? Read my full disclosure policy here.

Purse Feet Supply List

  • Bucket Purse Feet
    • (Check out all the different finishes right HERE)
  • Stabilizing swatch
    • (I used Pellon Peltex)
  • Sharp blade
    • (You can get something like THIS on Amazon)
  • Marking tool
    • (I just used a pencil)
  • Fray Check
    • (you should only need this if using cotton or knit fabric)

Installing your purse feet

Deciding which hardware finish to use on your handmade bag is really fun!  I like to try to match all my hardware.  If I am using a metal zipper, then I try to match the teeth on the zipper.  If I am using Swivel Snaps or Adjustable Sliders, then I will try to match those as well.  I think a nice bag or purse will have all matching hardware finish.

Pictured below is the bottom side of my Ansel Camera Bag.  To learn more about how I made this fun bag (and about using cork fabric) – Head over to my post about Sewing with Cork Fabric.

Purse Feet are some of the easiest additions to install into your Handmade Bag, Tote or Purse! Let me show you how to install purse feet and you can start adding these to your handmade goodies too! #Sewing #DIY #PurseFeet #VideoTutorial #Totes #Bag #Handmade #Designer #Custom #BagHardware #Purses #SewMuchMoore #SewMuchMooreInStore

Once you have chosen your hardware finish, you just need to install your hardware!  It is important to do this before you assemble your bag.  I usually install purse feet when I am done adding the interfacing to a bottom panel.

In the bag pictured below, the designer wanted to add buttons instead of purse feet.  While buttons would have added a cute touch – I really like how the purse feet look instead.  This bag is called the Ultimate Travel Bag and there is LOTS of hardware in this bag.

 

Purse Feet are some of the easiest additions to install into your Handmade Bag, Tote or Purse! Let me show you how to install purse feet and you can start adding these to your handmade goodies too! #Sewing #DIY #PurseFeet #VideoTutorial #Totes #Bag #Handmade #Designer #Custom #BagHardware #Purses #SewMuchMoore #SewMuchMooreInStore

Watch the video Tutorial

For this video tutorial, I have used a scrap piece of soft vinyl.  You can use just about any type of fabric.  I have used cotton, knit, vinyl, cork, and leather (just to name a few). Check out this step-by-step video to see how easy it is to install your own hardware to your handmade bag, tote or purse.

 

I hope you found this video tutorial helpful.  Be sure to head over to my online shop to get your own purse feet (in your favorite finish).  I cant wait to see your finished projects!  Be sure to share these on my Facebook Group.

Comment below and tell me what your favorite finish is!  Currently, I love the Gun Metal finish!

Happy Sewing!

Nicole Moore Blog Post Signature

 

 

 

Purse Feet are some of the easiest additions to install into your Handmade Bag, Tote or Purse! Let me show you how to install purse feet and you can start adding these to your handmade goodies too! #Sewing #DIY #PurseFeet #VideoTutorial #Totes #Bag #Handmade #Designer #Custom #BagHardware #Purses #SewMuchMoore #SewMuchMooreInStore
Purse Feet are some of the easiest additions to install into your Handmade Bag, Tote or Purse! Let me show you how to install purse feet and you can start adding these to your handmade goodies too! #Sewing #DIY #PurseFeet #VideoTutorial #Totes #Bag #Handmade #Designer #Custom #BagHardware #Purses #SewMuchMoore #SewMuchMooreInStore
Purse Feet are some of the easiest additions to install into your Handmade Bag, Tote or Purse! Let me show you how to install purse feet and you can start adding these to your handmade goodies too! #Sewing #DIY #PurseFeet #VideoTutorial #Totes #Bag #Handmade #Designer #Custom #BagHardware #Purses #SewMuchMoore #SewMuchMooreInStore
Scalloped Placemats Supply list and video tutorial

Scalloped Placemats Tutorial

In today’s video I will be demonstrating a scalloped placemats tutorial using the pattern by Poorhouse Quilt Designs. I’ll be using a wonderful line of designer fabric called Night of the Nutcracker by PaintBrush Studio Fabric’s. These fabrics feature playful mustaches, contemporary holiday foliage including Hollie leaves and berries and of course the Majestic nutcracker himself.These placemats have a unique scalloped shape which may appear intimating to make.  I don’t know why, but sewing curves can be scary!Not to worry because The Bosal double sided fusible precuts make this project a snap. You can find this pattern and all of your supplies in my online shop which I’ve linked in the Supply and Materials List below. 

This project is especially great for creating unique and custom placemats for your home. These are perfect for upcoming holidays and even for every day. Let’s get started and you’ll see just how easy it is to make these scalloped placemats!

This post contains affiliate links for your convenience. ? Read my full disclosure policy here.

Materials List

Basic Sewing Supplies Needed

Prepare the Accents and Borders

Preparing the accents and borders for Scalloped Placemats.

Once you’ve gathered your supplies, you’ll take your accent pieces over to the ironing board. Fold the accent pieces lengthwise, wrong sides together. I like to pre-treat mine with spray starch.

Once you have all of your accent pieces starched, folded and ironed, you will pin the accent to the border pieces. Pin all of these in place and then take these units over to the sewing machine.Sew these pieces together using a 1/4 inch seam allowance. I love using my quarter inch seam presser foot for jobs like this. 

Once you have that sewn in place you will press the seam allowance towards the border strip, extending the accent beyond the border edge. 

Create your Mitered Corners

Creating Mitered Corners for Scalloped Placemats.

Now, If you’re not comfortable with miters, let me show you how easy they actually are.  I’m using a 4.5″ x 8.5″ ruler by Creative Grids.  This is a really great size ruler for this project. You can see a very obvious 45° angle markings.  

Layout your project in the proper orientation, with the accent flange towards  the middle.  Place one border unit on top of the other, right sides together. Make sure you match the raw and finished edges. I add a pins to keep the units from slipping around.

I place the 45° line along the long raw edge of the stacked border pieces. I’ll take my friction pen and mark my angle. You may find that you need to be very specific with your measurements when making mitered corners. Go ahead and take your time lining up your fabrics and making your mark. 

We’re going to sew all corners exactly the same way. Before we cut any of the excess fabric away, we’re going to ensure that we liked the miters. If you don’t like how it looks, then you’ll have to see to seam rip and try again. Once you’re happy with how they turned out you’re going to give yourself a quarter inch seam allowance from the seam and trim away the excess fabric. You’ll do this on all corners.

Press your seems for each mitered corner open. I like to use my Wool Pressing Mat and spray starch to get them nice and flat. 

Scalloped Placemat Assembly

Scalloped Placemat Assembly

Pin the border strips set right sides together to the backing fabric. Stitch around the entire perimeter, using a 1/4 inch seam allowance. 

Now we will work on the front part of the placemat.

Attach the double-sided foam fusible scalloped placemat to the wrong side of the Front Fabric. Secure with Clips and take this over to your Wool Pressing Mat. Place your teflon sheet on your pressing surface. Lay your exposed fusible side on top and against your teflon sheet. Make sure that non of the fusible materials are exposed to your pressing mat.Without the Teflon sheet, you may accidentally fuse the opposite side of your project to something that you don’t want it to be fused to. 

Once you have your Front exterior fabric fused to your placemat, you’ll take some sharp pointy scissors (I recommend these scissors) and trim away the excess fabric. Follow the edge of the foam scallops and trim out away the excess. 

Next, Center the wrong side of the backing unit on the unfused side of your placemat. Your foam placemat should be facing right side up. Clip all around the exterior of the placemat. Flip the placemat over, take your project to the pressing mat, and fuse from the right side of the back. Using the zipper foot, you’r going to sew right along the edge of the foam scallop placemat. Sew around the entire perimeter of the scalloped placemat. When you come to a corner, make sure your needle is in the down position. Lift up your zipper foot, pivot your project, and then put your zipper foot down and continue sewing along the scallops.

Finishing Touches

Topstitching the Scalloped Placemat for finishing touches

Once you have everything assembled, you can trim away the excess fabric. I recommend trimming about an eighth inch away from your scallop seams.  You’re gonna want to get close enough to where you won’t have excess of bulk when you flip this, but you don’t want to get too close where the seam will fall apart in the wash. Remember, these are placemats and you will be washing these so don’t make your cuts any less than 1/8 inch. Once you have everything trimmed, take your sharp snips and clip the corners. Then take Fray Check and put a drop of Fray Check around each of those snapped crevices.

Now it’s time to flip the project. The magic is happening. Flip the corners first and then continue flipping the rest of the placemat. I love using the Point 2 Point Turner to help get the curves all the way turned out. After your placemat is turned out, you are going to do some top stitching.  I changed my presser foot to the regular presser foot, I changed my thread color to match my fabric, and I also changed the stitch length to three.  You may change your thread a couple times. Once for the accent top-stitching and again for the border stitching. Remember to match your bobbin thread also! This project is done best when you pay attention to the details.

This is it fun and easy project to do, they make great gifts and perfect for creating your own custom decor for the Holidays and everyday as well!

Checkout my YouTube video tutorial and make a placement set for yourself!

Nicole Moore Blog Post Signature
The Ooo Quilt is a fun and Modern Quilt! Make one for yourself! Check out the video tutorial and start making today! #quilt #quilting #modernquilting #modernquilt #modern #sewmuchmoore #sewmuchmooreinstore

The Ooo Quilt

The Ooo Quilt is a modern and fun project!  This is another custom quilt I made for a very lucky High School Graduate!  The Ooo Quilt was chosen from one of my Missouri Star Quilt Company Block books.  This was from Volume 1, issue 4.  In the book, this quilt was called “Jump Rings”.   We decided to use the school colors (orange and black), so the quilt could also pose as a Halloween Quilt.  The school mascot is a Pirate, so the skull and crossbones fabric worked out perfectly!  Let me show you all about this quilt so you can make one too!

The Ooo Quilt is a fun and modern quilt! This quilt is a super easy pattern! There is even a great video tutorial! #quilt #modernquilting

This post contains affiliate links for your convenience. ? Read my full disclosure policy here.

THE ooo QUILT – MATERIALS LIST

  • Missouri Star Quilt Company Block Magazine (Volume 1, Issue 4)
  • Qty (1) Jelly Roll
    • I cheated and cut up my own fabric and some specific Kona Solids that my client chose.
  • Qty (2.5) yards of background fabric (Pewter)
  • Qty (1.25) yards of border fabric (Carrot)
  • Qty (.5) yards of binding fabric (Pewter)
  • Qty (2.5) yards of backing fabric (more Pewter)
  • Cotton batting (this is the exact batting I used)

THE ooo QUILT – SUPPLY LIST

Be sure to check out my Amazon Shop to get all your Quilty supplies!

The Ooo Quilt is a fun and modern quilt! This Quilt block is just one of many to make the entire quilt. Just make this quilt one block at a time and you will be thrilled with the results! This Modern Quilt is a super easy pattern! There is even a great video tutorial! #quilt #modernquilting

THE ooo QUILT – ASSEMBLY

Be sure to get yourself a copy of the Block Magazine.  In the pattern, you will find all the details for assembly.  The process is really simple.  Deciding upon the layout was fun.  It took me several times to finally settle upon a layout!

The Ooo Quilt is a fun and modern quilt! This quilt is a super easy pattern! This is the layout I tried before I sewed it all together! There is even a great video tutorial! #quilt #modernquilting

I numbered my rows, after I decided on the layout.  That really helps me to keep things straight when I get the blocks back to the machine for sewing.

THE 000 QUILT – ALMOST FINISHED!

The Ooo Quilt is a fun and modern quilt! This quilt is a super easy and F-R-E-E pattern! There is even a great video tutorial! #quilt #modernquilting

Once I had my quilt top assembled, I drove to my friend’s house to rent some time on her wonderful long arm quilting machine.  Once you use a long arm quilting machine – it’s difficult to go back to quilting on your domestic (just sayin’).  I know everyone doesn’t have a long arm option, so you can always use free motion quilting on your domestic.  It’s simple!  Be sure you have a Darning Foot!  There are different kinds, based upon the shaft of your specific machine.  I always love my time with my friend’s long arm machine!  I would love to have one of my own, but I have NO ROOM!  Maybe someday!  Until then, I hope to keep Tia Curtis as a close quilty friend!  She is so helpful and wonderfully talented!  She even took this fun picture of me (with the pile of quilts I accomplished in one day)!

The Ooo Quilt is a fun and modern quilt! This quilt is a super easy and F-R-E-E pattern! There is even a great video tutorial! #quilt #modernquilting

Once I sewed on the binding, I could not wait to take some pictures of this amazing quilt!  I convinced my husband to help me take some pictures of the finished quilt.  We took a drive to the Powell Gardens for some scenic pictures.  It is such a great location!  I liked this picture the best!  What do you think?

The Ooo Quilt is a fun and modern quilt! This quilt is a super easy and F-R-E-E pattern! There is even a great video tutorial! #quilt #modernquilting

Making The Ooo Quilt was fun and easy!  I just loved making it and my customer loved the result!  Yay!

If I were ever to make this quilt again, I think I might simply use a Jelly Roll.  That would certainly make the process much quicker.  I hope you try to make one of these quilts.

Happy Quilting!

Nicole Moore Blog Post Signature

Hand Binding a Quilt

Binding a quilt by hand can be a very relaxing and therapudic process.

Hand Binding a quilt is the final step in finishing your quilt. Before you bind, you will have quilted your quilt. You can see how I quilted this particular quilt right here.  Once your quilt is quilted, you will make your binding and attach the binding to your quilt. I’ve demonstrated this step right here.

Now that your binding is attached, all that is left is to hand stitch the binding to your quilt!  Be sure to review the materials that I use to bind a quilt by hand and don’t forget to watch the video tutorial at the end of this article!

This post contains affiliate links for your convenience. ? Read my full disclosure policy here.

Threading the Needle

Once you have your supplies ready you need to thread your needle.  This particular needle has a larger eye than most needles. Simply push the thread through the eye of the needle. Give yourself about 18 inches of thread. If you get too much more thread than that you will be doing too much work with your arm and binding will get tiresome.

To make a knot, take the end of your thread and twist around your finger like the image above. Move your thumb along your finger, which causes the thread to twist.  Pull the thread with your thumb and index finger to form your knot.  Magic!

Basic Binding Stitch

To prepare for binding your quilt – take your binding and fold it over, then secure it with clips.  You don’t need to clip the whole quilt ( or even a large section) – just a few clips will work just fine.   You can move these clips through the progress of your binding.

Start your needle next to the raw edge of your quilt and under the binding fold.  Make sure you knot is hidden under the folded binding.  Next, make a stitch on your quilt and catch the very edge of the folded binding with your needle.  Pull your thread all the way through and continue this simple whip stitch until you get to a corner.

Conquering the Corner

Begin like your basic whip stitch and come out and up through the mitered bottom corner of the top folded binding.  Take another stitch from near that same position and come out and up through the corner of the quilt. Make sure that you catch the top binding on your way up and the bottom piece on your way back down. Continue with the basic binding whip stitch through the rest of the side.

The Final Knot

I call this the Loop-de-loop! Simply make a large loop and bring your thread back through that same loop. Take your needle and catch that second thread and pull your needle all the way through until a final knot is formed.

You will need to make this same knot, several times throughout the hand binding process.  I mean, 18″ of thread will only take you so far!  I think it is much easier to learn this finishing trick and all the other techniques by watching the video.

Hand Binding your Quilt is a very rewarding exercise in creativity! I hope you found this article and video tutorial helpful!

Happy Quilting!

Nicole Moore Blog Post Signature

Adding Binding to your Quilt

I love finishing and adding binding to your quilt means we are getting closer to the finish!  Let’s dive into the details of adding binding to your quilt and don’t forget to watch the video tutorial at the end!

This post contains affiliate links for your convenience. ? Read my full disclosure policy here.

Materials List

Basic Supply List

Prepare the Binding

Once we have our binding made, we need to prepare to attach it to our quilt.

Take your binding strip and fold it wrong sides together. Give this a good pressing all along the length of the binding strip. 

Attach the Binding

To attach the binding to your quilt take the raw edge of your folded binding and clip it to the raw edge of your trimmed quilt. Use clips to secure this to your quilt. 

Measure about 6 inches from the end of your binding strip as your sewing starting point. 

Next, you will sew your binding to your quilt top.  I’m using a seam guide to ensure I have the correct seem allowance. I’m using a quarter inch seam allowance. 

Sew the binding onto your quilt and stop just before you come to your first corner. 

Turning the Corner

Take your binding strip and fold a diagonal line while bringing the fabric strip up into a  perpendicular position to the the already attached binding. Bring the binding strip back down (in the opposite direction) while aligning your fabric to the top and side corner of your quilt.

Position the binding strip a long the raw edge and continue sewing until you get to the next corner.  

Repeat this process for each corner of your quilt.

Joining the Binding

Once you get close to the place you started attaching your binding, you will leave about a 12 inch gap. 

Now we will join our binding ends together. First we will butt each strip together and make a mark on one of the strips. Cut off the excess fabric on the marked strip.  Unless you remember the width of your prepared binding strips, you need to measure the width of the binding, 

Take the other binding strip and lay it over the strip you just cut.  Measure from where the cut strip starts to the measured width of the binding strip and make another mark.  Trim off the excess.

You will want at least 12 inches of un-sewn binding.   you’ll take that excess, gather up most of the slack and clip it. Open up your binding strips and pin them together .  Take your ruler and mark a sewing line. Sew along the line to join the binding strips. 

Remove the clips and pins and lay your joined binding strip against your Quilt top to make sure the length is correct before you cut any excess from your joined a binding. 

Open up the seam you just created and then continue attaching the binding to your quilt.

I hope you enjoyed this tutorial and maybe even learned something new!

Until next time! Happy Stitches!

Nicole Moore Blog Post Signature

Making Striped Binding for Quilts

Striped binding for quilts is a very popular choice.  More and more modern and contemporary quilters are choosing striped binding, but sometimes struggle with matching the striped lines.  In this tutorial, I will show you how to align the stripes on your fabric binding, tips for marking your sewing lines and finally sewing the fabric strips together.  Be sure to watch my helpful video at the end of this article.

Learn how to match binding stripes and watch the video tutorial too!

SUPPLY LIST

BASIC SEWING SUPPLIES NEEDED

Learn how to match binding stripes and watch the video tutorial too!

Aligning the Strips

The fabric I chose for my binding has large stripes, which makes it easier to match.  The tricky part is that while some of the stripes are solid, others are designed with a fading effect.  To start the aligning process, place the first strip of binding on a surface that can accept a sewing pin.  I recommend a Wool Pressing Mat.  Lay the first strip right side up.  Take the next fabric strip and place it on top of the first, in a perpendicular manner (right sides together).  The adjoining fabric strip should be placed with the vast majority of the excess at the top of your perpendicular setting.  I auditioned different sections of the joining strip to get the best alignment with the stripes.  Still having the majority of the adjoining fabric strip going out the top.  Once I found a good match, I secured this position with sewing pins.

Learn how to match binding stripes and watch the video tutorial too!

Marking the Sewing Line

Using your small acrylic ruler and frixion pen, mark the sewing line.  This line will begin at the bottom left intersection and end at the top right intersection.  If you have the majority of your adjoining fabric coming out the bottom of your perpendicular setting – you will mark your sewing line from the top left to bottom right.  You will essentially be drawing a diagonal line.  Be extra careful to make your mark in the appropriate direction, otherwise your next step will not turn out like you planned.  Once you’ve marked your sewing line, you can re-adjust your sewing pin placement and prepare for sewing.

Learn how to match binding stripes and watch the video tutorial too!

Sewing the Strips together

The last step in this process is definitely the easiest!  Simply sew the line you just marked.  You can back-stitch at the beginning and end of each section if you want.  These raw edges will eventually find their way into the seams of a quilt.  Continue to join binding strips until you have enough to complete your project. Trim the excess fabric and press your seams open. Repeat the process for each binding strip you add.

WATCH THE VIDEO

Learn how to match binding stripes and watch the video tutorial too!

Using striped binding is one of my favorite ways to finish a quilt! Stay tuned for an upcoming post and video where I show you how to attach your binding to your quilt!

Until then, Happy Quilting!

Nicole Moore Blog Post Signature

Cat Faces Quilt

In this tutorial, I will show how I made my Cat Quilt!  This is a whimsical art quilt that incorporates machine appliqué.  I have always been a cat person! I wouldn’t go as far to say that I’m a “Cat Lady” because I only have one cat.    I had so much fun making this truly unique quilt.  Let me show you how I made it!

Learn all about making a Cat Faces Quilt!  See how the finished quilt turns out!  #CatFacesQuilt #RawEdgeApplique #ModernQuilts #SewMuchMoore

This post contains affiliate links for your convenience. ? Read my full disclosure policy here.

The Cat Faces concept and process is an original idea by Melissa Averinos.  I took a full day class with Melissa, who is a wonderful instructor.  If you ever get a chance to learn from Melissa – I highly recommend her! You can learn more about Melissa RIGHT HERE.

I truly enjoyed getting to know Melissa and learning about her process. This article is just a simple overview of what her full day class covered. Be sure to check out Melissa on her website!

Designing the cats

Line Drawing for Cat Faces Quilt.  This is the first step in the design process for the Cat Faces Quilt.  See how the finished quilt turns out!  #CatFacesQuilt #RawEdgeApplique #ModernQuilts #SewMuchMoore

Melissa instructed us to make simple line drawings of cat faces. As you can see – I will not be doing any tutorials on drawing! LOL! Actually, the simpler the drawing – the easier it is to make out of fabric!

Creating the Cat

The second part of the process was cutting out the fabric and layering the different elements of the cat face.  We initially used a washable glue stick, but later I added Misty Fuse to make the pieces more secure.

Using a temporary adhesive, such as a glue stick, helped me decide how I wanted each cat face to look. Check out the progression of this cat… Just by moving his eyelids – he takes on an entirely different appearance!

Raw Edge Applique

Check out my Cat Faces Quilt and see how I quilted it!
See how the finished quilt turns out!  #CatFacesQuilt #RawEdgeApplique #ModernQuilts #SewMuchMoore

I used my J-350 LongArm Quilting machine to quilt this project.  The 18” throat space gives me loads of room to move the quilt underneath the needle.

Initially I spent way too much time worrying about how I was going to quilt this project.  In the end, I decided to leave the edges raw.  My thinking is that because this is a wall hanging – I wont need to worry too much about the fabric fraying.

This quilting machine is truly wonderful, especially for smaller sewing spaces.  What’s really nice is that the head of the machine is completely removable and can be attached to a quilting frame.  I’m sure that when my kids are all grown and finished with college, I will be able to take over one of their bedrooms!

I used my open toe foot and also my ruler foot. I switched feet when it made sense and I was happy with the results. I don’t even know why I spent so much time worrying about how to quilt this quilt!

WATCH THE VIDEO

Be sure to watch my video tutorial and checkout some of the tips in action!

Stay tuned for my next installment of this quilt. I will be using striped binding to finish it off! Be sure to sign up for my weekly Newsletter and you won’t miss a post! You can signup below!

Until next time – Happy Sewing!

 

Nicole Moore Blog Post Signature

DIY Travel Pillow Cases

With warmer weather quickly approaching, now is a perfect time to make a few DIY Travel Pillow Cases!  This fun and easy method will allow you to make one for each person in your family.  They make great gifts too!  Let me show you how!

Make a Travel Sized Pillow Case! This fun and easy method is quick and simple! Perfect for the beginner! Let me show you how! #sewing #TravelPillowCase #PillowcaseTutorial #RoadTrips #FreePattern #GiftIdeas #Sew #ForKids #HowToMake #VideoTutorial #StepByStep #Easy #Simple #SpringBreak #SummerVacation #SewMuchMoore #SewMuchMooreInStore

 

Get your cutting measurements!

Option 1: Download for free.  If you sign up for my Weekly Newsletter, you will get the cutting measurements and written directions for free!  If you are already a subscriber – no worries!  You won’t be double subscribed!

Option 2: Purchase this PDF pattern

Use this link to purchase the fabric cutting instructions. You’ll be emailed a download link for a file that references the instructions in this tutorial and provides the cutting measurements for this pattern.  You’ll also be able to purchase this file in my shop.

This post contains affiliate links for your convenience. ? Read my full disclosure policy here.

Make a Travel Sized Pillow Case! This fun and easy method is quick and simple! Perfect for the beginner! Let me show you how! #sewing #TravelPillowCase #PillowcaseTutorial #RoadTrips #FreePattern #GiftIdeas #Sew #ForKids #HowToMake #VideoTutorial #StepByStep #Easy #Simple #SpringBreak #SummerVacation #SewMuchMoore #SewMuchMooreInStore

Here are the materials you will need to make a Travel Pillow Case:

DIY Travel Pillow Case – Materials List
  • Pillow Case Pattern
  • Qty (1) 12” x 16” Pillow Form
  • ½ Yard of Fabric for your Main Print (*Royals Fabric)
  • ¼ Yard of Fabric for your Pillowcase Band (French Blue)
  • 1/8 Yard of Fabric for your Pillowcase Trim (White)
DIY Travel Pillow Case – Basic Supplies

Download my pattern for your cutting instructions and have a great time making your DIY Travel Pillow Case!  If you like video instructions; check out this video, which follows the same steps.  Please note that the video is showing you how to make a full-sized pillowcase.  The steps for the DIY Travel Pillow Case size are the same (just smaller).

Let me share a few pictures of some great group sewing events we had.  All the participants made their own DIY Travel Pillow Case!  Aren’t they fabulous??!?

Make a Travel Sized Pillow Case! This fun and easy method is quick and simple! Perfect for the beginner! Let me show you how! #sewing #TravelPillowCase #PillowcaseTutorial #RoadTrips #FreePattern #GiftIdeas #Sew #ForKids #HowToMake #VideoTutorial #StepByStep #Easy #Simple #SpringBreak #SummerVacation #SewMuchMoore #SewMuchMooreInStore

 

Make a Travel Sized Pillow Case! This fun and easy method is quick and simple! Perfect for the beginner! Let me show you how! #sewing #TravelPillowCase #PillowcaseTutorial #RoadTrips #FreePattern #GiftIdeas #Sew #ForKids #HowToMake #VideoTutorial #StepByStep #Easy #Simple #SpringBreak #SummerVacation #SewMuchMoore #SewMuchMooreInStore

I hope you make lots and lots of these fun DIY Travel Pillow Cases!

Happy Sewing!

Nicole Moore Blog Post Signature

CHECK OUT these fun sewing projects!

DIY Cell Phone Charging Station

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How to get PERFECT Seam Allowance

In this tutorial, I will show you several different ways to achieve a perfect seam allowance for your sewing projects.  

Using my Juki TL2010Q sewing machine, I will introduce you to several different tools that will get you sewing like a pro!

In this tutorial, I will show you several different ways to achieve a perfect seam allowance for your sewing projects.  Watch the FREE video tutorial and start sewing like a PRO! #SeamAllowance #SewingSkills

This post contains affiliate links for your convenience. ? Read my full disclosure policy here.

Tools for Seam Allowance

Washi Tape

The 1st tool is something that you may have already at your house.  Washi Tape is an easily available and inexpensive product.  Simply place washi tape on the faceplate of your sewing machine.  Usually, there are seam lines that are already embossed on your faceplate.  To get started you can align your washi tape at the quarter-inch marking.  Once you’ve aligned your tape, against your desired seam allowance marking, you can simply position the edge of your fabric against the edge of the washi tape.  This technique is quick and easy and can provide excellent results!  I use a seam guide to ensure that my seam allowance is correct!

Magnetic Seam Guide

In this tutorial, I will show you several different ways to achieve a perfect seam allowance for your sewing projects.  Watch the FREE video tutorial and start sewing like a PRO! #SeamAllowance #SewingSkills

The second tool I want to show you is the Magnetic Seam Guide.  This gadget has a strong magnet on the back and will hold into place on your sewing machine faceplate. To use this tool, simply locate your desired seam allowance and align the edge of the magnetic seam guide to the edge of the seam allowance line. (What makes the magnetic seam guide better than washi tape is the raised edge of the guide.  It is much easier to hold the fabric edge next to the magnetic seam guide.) You can easily move the guide further in or further out – depending upon the seam allowance you might need for different projects.

Quarter Inch Presser Foot

In this tutorial, I will show you several different ways to achieve a perfect seam allowance for your sewing projects.  Using a 1/4

One of my favorite ways to get a great seam allowance is by using a Juki Brand quarter-inch presser foot. While this foot doesn’t come standard with the Juki TL2010Q; it is easily purchased aftermarket. These feet are super simple to switch out. You just remove the side screw and replace the foot. Once you have the new foot in the place you can just begin sewing.  This foot is specifically for a quarter-inch seam allowance. This specialty sewing foot is particularly great for making quilt blocks.  

Marking a Sewing Line

In this tutorial, I will show you several different ways to achieve a perfect seam allowance for your sewing projects.  Using a Frixion Pen and an Acrylic Ruler is just one of the ways to help you create perfect seam allowance.  Watch the FREE video tutorial and start sewing like a PRO! #SeamAllowance #SewingSkills

One of the last ways to sew with perfect seam allowance is by marking your sewing lines. Whenever I mark my sewing lines, I like to use a Frixion Pen.  These pens are super useful. The magic is when you apply heat. You simply mark on your fabric and then press with your hot iron and the marks magically disappear.  Now, I will tell you that I only use these pens for marking my sewing lines.  I never use these in an area that won’t be hidden by stitches or a seam allowance.  To mark your sewing line, just lay your acrylic ruler over the edge of your fabric.  Draw your line, right against the edge of your ruler. Sewing lines are also very helpful if you are new to sewing and need that extra bit of visual help.

Be sure to watch my video tutorial, which shows you how to use each of the above tools mentioned.  

Watch the Video

In this tutorial, I will show you several different ways to achieve a perfect seam allowance for your sewing projects.  Watch the FREE video tutorial and start sewing like a PRO! #SeamAllowance #SewingSkills

I hope this article gave you some ideas and help in order to achieve a perfect seam allowance. Be sure to check out my Facebook Group and Instagram Stories for more inspiration!

Happy Stitching!

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