Personalized Zipper Pouch

November 19, 2020November 27, 20204 Comments

Everyone loves personalized gifts! Having your name or your initials on an item is a great way to personalize any handmade gift! This Personalized Zipper Pouch is the perfect size for pencils, markers or pens. You can also fill it with makeup or anything to help keep you organized in style. Let’s take a look how to make this fun and simple project!

This post contains affiliate links for your convenience. ? Read my full disclosure policy here.

Materials List

Qty (2) Exterior fabric pieces: 9′′ x 5.5′′
- - I used 100% Cotton Duck Canvas Fabric
Qty (3) Accent/Interior fabric pieces: 9′′ x 5.5′′
- - I used fabric from my online shop
  - We will use one of these pieces for the exterior Letter and Accent
Zipper Tab fabric: 2′′ x 4′′ (I used the same fabric as the interior/accent)
Qty (1) 9′′ Nylon zipper – I get all my zippers right HERE
Optional label – Check out Dutch Label Shop

Supply List

Domestic Sewing Machine (check out my sewing machine recommendations)
- - I also used my Industrial Sewing Machine (optional)
Cricut Maker (optional)
- - If you don’t have a Cricut Maker, you can print out your Personalization Letter from THIS WEBSITE, trace, and fuse your letter this way.
  - Cricut FabricGrip Machine Mat for the Cricut Maker
  - Cricut Weeding Tool
Cotton Thread (I recommend this thread)
Rotary Cutter with sharp blade (get replacement blades HERE)
Cutting Mat
Misty Fuse
Iron (I love my Oliso Iron)
Wool Pressing Mat
Wonder Clips
Scissors – I love my Karen Kay Buckley Scissors
Parchment Paper

Cutting The Personalized Letter

Place the accent fabric on your Circuit FabricGrip Machine Mat, right side up. Use a seam roller or a brayer to secure the fabric onto the mat. Program your Cricut Machine to cut your Personalized initial. I made sure the size did not exceed 4” in height. Once you cut the shape, remove your mat from the machine. Use your Cricut weeding tools to remove your cut shape.

Clip off a piece of your Misty Fuse and Parchment paper to prep the wrong side of your cut shape. Using your iron, fuse the Misty Fuse and remove any access residue. Place your cut shape onto one of your exterior fabric pieces.

ps – If you don’t have or use a Cricut Machine, you can simply print out a letter, trace and fuse as well. Don’t let the machinery stop you from making this fun project!

Making the Zipper Tab

Cut your zipper to 8”. Fold and press fabric rectangle in half lengthwise , wrong sides together. Open it back up and fold each side to the center; press. Trim the ends of the zipper. Slip the zipper end in between the folded fabric to create a sandwich.

Straight stitch along the edge. Trim off ends of fabric from zipper tab. Open zipper and repeat steps 3 & 4. Be sure to line up the zipper straight across the top opening before attaching the zipper tab.

Assemble the Personalized Zipper Pouch

Place the front of the exterior fabric piece, right side up. Place the zipper along the top raw edge, the wrong side down. Clip in place and cover this with the interior fabric piece. Clip all together and sew along the top edge with your zipper foot. Be sure to secure this side with topstitching. Next, follow the same steps on the back side of the pencil pouch.

Finally, OPEN YOUR ZIPPER! (This is important). Secure the exterior and interior pieces together (right sides together) and secure with clips. Sew along the entire perimeter of the project, but leave a 3-4′′ opening on the middle of the interior fabric side. Now you can flip your project right side out and sew the opening closed.

Just take a look at this video and see how fun and easy it is to make these Personalized Zipper Pouch!

I got carried away and decided to make several of these for my family. They really make great gifts. I filled them with age related items. Colored Pencils for my young niece and some makeup compacts for my older nieces. So much fun to make them special for each person!

Let me know in the comments who you would make a Personalized Zipper Pouch for. I would love to hear from you.

Just Keep Sewing!

Daylight Wafer Lightbox

November 12, 2020November 21, 20203 Comments

Ever since I started using the Daylight Company Wafer 1 Lightbox, my Foundation Paper Piecing projects have elevated to the next level. The Daylight Wafer 1 Lightbox is sleek, modern, compact and brilliantly bright. This is not your Grandma’s Lightbox. You know the one I’m talking about! The old lightbox that is big, bulky and emits yellow light. Let me show you all the smart and useful ways to incorporate the Daylight Wafer 1 Lightbox into your sewing studio.

Using the Best Daylight Wafer Lightbox

This post contains affiliate links for your convenience. ? Read my full disclosure policy here.

Tracing Images using Daylight Wafer Lightbox

I recently used my Daylight Wafer 1 Lightbox to trace an image for a Holiday quilting project. I needed the image to be reversed and the only way to do this was to turn the paper over and trace the outline.

Thanks goodness I had my Daylight Wafer 1 Lightbox. With the lowest ultra light setting, I was able to easily trace the outline for a transposed image and finish designing my masterpiece.

Foundation Paper Piecing

Before I had my Daylight Wafer 1 Lightbox, I had to make sure I had adequate natural sunlight in order to see through the pattern paper. This isn’t always possible if you are a night owl, like me. Using the Daylight Lightbox, in conjunction with my Perfect Piecing Paper, Add-A-Quarter Ruler and Seam Roller, made quick work of an otherwise tricky project!

I love being able to see the lines of my pattern and the designs of the fabric at the same time. It was a bonus to also have the Daylight Wafer 1 self healing cutting mat as well.

Weeding Vinyl for Cricut projects

An unexpected bonus was when I discovered I could very easily use my Daylight Wafer 1 Lightbox to help with weeding the vinyl I had cut with my Cricut Maker. If you are a Cricut user, you know how tiresome weeding vinyl can be on your eyes.

When I place my cut Vinyl sheet on top of my Ultra Illuminated Daylight Wafer 1 Lightbox – it was like the angels in heaven were shining through the project and showing me where to lift and peel. Talk about a game changer!

Just take a look at this video and see how much easier your life can be when you add a Daylight Wafer 1 Lightbox to your Sewing Space!

These Lightboxes come in 3 different sizes and each size also has an optional cutting mat, which can be added separately. I am using the Daylight Wafer 1 Lightbox and Daylight Wafer 1 Cutting Mat in this video. This size is perfect for my small sewing space and provides a nice size for fussy cutting. If you need a larger size, not to worry. These also come in 2 bigger sizes.

Checkout the Daylight Wafer 1 Lightbox and be sure to use my special coupon code to receive 20% off your order!

Let me know in the comments how you would use a Daylight Wafer 1 Lightbox and Daylight Wafer 1 Cutting Mat in your next sewing project. I would love to hear from you!

Just Keep Sewing!

BRIGHTEN YOUR SEWING STUDIO

November 4, 2020November 5, 2020Leave a comment

Are you sewing in a dark or dimly light area? Do you wish you could Brighten your sewing studio and relieve stress on your eyes? Do you want to see better when you are sewing or quilting? I know exactly how you feel and have been working on this problem for a while now. I’m so excited to share my 7 tips to brighten your sewing space! These are practical ideas that can make an immediate difference to your time in your sewing room. Let’s dive in and don’t forget to watch the video too!

This post contains affiliate links for your convenience. ? Read my full disclosure policy here.

Natural Light

Using natural light is one of the easiest ways to brighten up a room. You can have the sun shine even brighter in your room when your windows are clean! Yes, we know. This one seems a tad obvious, but simply cleaning your windows can have a major effect on how much sunlight streams into the room. The less dirt, dust, and splatters on your windows, the more sunshine can peek into your room. (Plus, cleaning a window is way easier than installing more windows.) This is also a good time to dust the window sill and blinds (if you have them).

I use white blinds in my window and this works well to reflect light in the room, allows light to come in and also provides adequate privacy when closed. In the image, you can see what a difference it makes to have lighter colored window treatments! Consider changing to a lighter shade of window treatment too!

Wall Paint

Since light is easily reflected, it is recommended to have very light (or even white) walls in your sewing space.

This isn’t the space to try out a moody, dark color palette. Think back to sixth-grade science: The lighter the color of your walls, the more light they’ll reflect.

Flooring

There are tons of choices for flooring, but when a space is in need of additional light, it’s best to choose light wood (or carpet) flooring to brighten up the room.

If changing out the carpet or flooring is not in your immediate budget, consider adding a large white or cream colored area rug.

Ceiling

Aren’t most ceilings white? I think so, but it’s worth mentioning that having a white ceiling is another way to ensure that you maximize the light being bounded around the room. Most of us have the builders grade popcorn ceiling, and that is just fine. If you ever want to upgrade, they have some amazing Ceiling Tile Accents that would take your space to the next level.

Although my ceiling is packed full of video equipment, I chose to use white PVC Pipes and brackets. To learn more about my ceiling setup, check out this article.

Change Your Bulbs

A simple thing, like changing your light bulb, can make an instant and amazing difference! The difference between Daylight Bulbs and Soft White bulbs is simply remarkable! I recommend using Daylight Light Bulbs for your Sewing Studio! These are white lights that really brighten your sewing space!

Another great thing about the Daylight Bulbs is that they do not emit heat. We all know how warm it can get in a sewing room. I mean, that iron isn’t cool and can really heat up a space. So, don’t add to the hot box by using the soft white bulbs. Switch to Daylight Light Bulbs ASAP! Ps – they even make Daylight bulbs for your sewing machine!!!!

Embrace Minimalism

Let’s face it. We all have a lot of stuff! We have even more stuff when it comes to our sewing and quilting supplies! We have fabric, tools, notions, machines (not to mention the cutting tables, ironing boards and more). And then we pack it all into a single room! Take a look at my space before I switch to minimalism.

We also love to showcase our work by hanging up our mini quilts and sometimes trying to fill up all the empty spaces. While this is very pretty and can also be fun, all these colorful projects can absorb the light in the room. Take a look at the difference when I remove most of the mini quilts and change to a minimalistic decor. The space has definitely brightened. I did leave a single mini quilt on my wall, but will keep my other mini quilts handy so I can change them out on rotation.

Add the Slimline 3

I just love my Slimline 3 Table Lamp. I have this clamped on the side of my Sewing Table. My light illuminates my sewing machine. Because it has a swivel base, I can swing it around to my ironing board as well! This lamp has two flexible joints so I can position it in the perfect place for my task.

My Slimline 3 from the Daylight Company has 4 different brightness levels. I use the lower setting for sewing during the daytime and crank up the brightness for evening sewing and quilting. And because I am a Daylight Brand Ambassador, I can offer you my coupon code for 20% off your purchase! Just head over to the Daylight Company website and get your Slimline 3 today! Use Coupon Code SEW20 for 20% off!

Watch the video to see all the ways to brighten your sewing studio!

I hope you can take some of these ideas and use them right away. I would love to know in the comments which idea you like best!

Keep Sewing Brightly!

Oh, Christmas Tree Pattern and Tutorial

October 28, 2020November 6, 20202 Comments

Making Christmas Tree quilt blocks is a fun and simply way to add cheer to your home. You can turn these blocks into a simple mug rug (perfect for gifts), create a festive table runner or even make a bunch for your very own Christmas Quilt! How ever many you decide to make, I’m sure we can all agree that these blocks are timeless and fun! Be sure to check out the
video tutorial at the bottom of this article!

This post contains affiliate links for your convenience. ? Read my full disclosure policy here.

MATERIALS LIST

Oh, Christmas Tree Pattern by Sew Much Moore (that’s me)
Fabric (I recommend these fabrics)
- - Background: Sand or Linen
  - Tree Trunk: Cumin or Old Gold
  - Tree: Holiday Bundle or your desired combo from my Solid’s Collection
Perfect Paper
Seam Roller
Add-A-Quarter Ruler
Daylight Wafer 1 Lightbox with Cutting Mat
- - (use coupon code SEW20 for 20% off all Daylight products)

BASIC SEWING SUPPLIES NEEDED

Sewing Machine (check out my recommendations right here)
Thread
- - basic color for construction (I use THIS color)
Scissors (I recommend this pair – super sharp and pointy)
Iron (I use and recommend this brand of iron)
Ironing board (I always use a Wool Pressing Mat)
Spray Starch (I love this brand and scent)

Oh Christmas Tree - I love using the Add-A-Quarter Ruler when Foundation Paper Piecing!

Prelude to piecing

To make the Christmas tree foundation paper pieced block, you’ll print your patterns on copy paper. Take a look at the one inch mark and measure it with your ruler. I really like to transfer my copies onto foundation paper. I like the Perfect Piecing paper. It is really transparent and rips out easily. I also like using the Add a quarter ruler. It has a nice quarter inch which makes foundation paper piecing really easy using this ruler.

Oh Christmas Tree Pattern - Using a Daylight Wafer 1 Lightbox and cutting mat is a perfect way to make quick work of all your FPP patterns!

Starting the Christmas Tree Block

Each of these blocks have seven pieces and we’re going to start in numerical order. Piece number one is the tree trunk and piece number two is the background. To start the block you’re going to have the right side of your fabric be right against the backside of your foundation paper piece pattern. And then you’re going to put block number two fabric (right sides together with fabric number one), directly behind fabric number one. Sew the line between number one and number two.

Now, fold that pattern paper piece back and use our add a quarter ruler. This little lip helps hold it against that folded edge and gives you a one quarter inch seam allowance. Cut off the excess fabric and then the seam roller to press out that seam.

Just keep sewing

Next we’re going to work through the remaining pieces.

You’ll line it up to make sure you have at least a quarter of an inch past the line. And make sure that you have enough fabric all around the edges also.

We’re going to fold that back and trim away the excess and we’ll use our seam roller and press that back. And piece number four is done just like piece number three.

Using the Daylight Wafer 1 Lightbox comes in really handy for things like this. You can see all the pieces behind you, even when there’s multiple layers.

Pieces five, six and seven are larger and you might find it helpful to test the fabric placement, before sewing. To do this, simply use sewing pins in lieu of stitches. Test the placement, make adjustments if necessary and proceed with sewing.

Oh Christmas Tree Pattern - Since I used Perfect Piecing Foundation Paper - tearing away the pattern is easy!

Finishing the block

Now all that’s left is to trim away the excess fabric around the perimeter of the block. Now you’re not going to want to trim right on the exterior line. You’ll give yourself a one quarter inch outside of the line. I’m using the Add a quarter ruler for that I can see the lip of the one quarter inch mark.

Now all that’s left is to rip out the paper because the stitch length was 1.5″. It really makes a nice perforation on the paper. And this paper is the perfect piecing paper because it’s a lot thinner than regular paper. As a bonus – Perfect Paper is super easy to rip out!

Watch the Video

This was a super easy and quick foundation paper piece block. Be sure to get a copy of the pattern and start making your own Christmas Trees today!

Happy Stitches,

How to Install Purse Feet

October 1, 2020October 1, 20201 Comment

Purse Feet are some of the easiest additions to install into your Handmade Bag, Tote or Purse! These little gems can take your handmade bags and purses to the next level while keeping the bottom of your item off surfaces. I love how this hardware comes in different sizes and finishes too! Let me show you how to install purse feet and you can start adding these to your handmade goodies too!

This post contains affiliate links for your convenience. ? Read my full disclosure policy here.

Purse Feet Supply List

Bucket Purse Feet
- (Check out all the different finishes right HERE)
Stabilizing swatch
- (I used Pellon Peltex)
Sharp blade
- (You can get something like THIS on Amazon)
Marking tool
- (I just used a pencil)
Fray Check
- (you should only need this if using cotton or knit fabric)

Installing your purse feet

Deciding which hardware finish to use on your handmade bag is really fun! I like to try to match all my hardware. If I am using a metal zipper, then I try to match the teeth on the zipper. If I am using Swivel Snaps or Adjustable Sliders, then I will try to match those as well. I think a nice bag or purse will have all matching hardware finish.

Pictured below is the bottom side of my Ansel Camera Bag. To learn more about how I made this fun bag (and about using cork fabric) – Head over to my post about Sewing with Cork Fabric.

Once you have chosen your hardware finish, you just need to install your hardware! It is important to do this before you assemble your bag. I usually install purse feet when I am done adding the interfacing to a bottom panel.

In the bag pictured below, the designer wanted to add buttons instead of purse feet. While buttons would have added a cute touch – I really like how the purse feet look instead. This bag is called the Ultimate Travel Bag and there is LOTS of hardware in this bag.

Watch the video Tutorial

For this video tutorial, I have used a scrap piece of soft vinyl. You can use just about any type of fabric. I have used cotton, knit, vinyl, cork, and leather (just to name a few). Check out this step-by-step video to see how easy it is to install your own hardware to your handmade bag, tote or purse.

I hope you found this video tutorial helpful. Be sure to head over to my online shop to get your own purse feet (in your favorite finish). I cant wait to see your finished projects! Be sure to share these on my Facebook Group.

Comment below and tell me what your favorite finish is! Currently, I love the Gun Metal finish!

Happy Sewing!

Scalloped Placemats Supply list and video tutorial

Scalloped Placemats Tutorial

September 23, 2020November 14, 20202 Comments

In today’s video I will be demonstrating a scalloped placemats tutorial using the pattern by Poorhouse Quilt Designs. I’ll be using a wonderful line of designer fabric called Night of the Nutcracker by PaintBrush Studio Fabric’s. These fabrics feature playful mustaches, contemporary holiday foliage including Hollie leaves and berries and of course the Majestic nutcracker himself.These placemats have a unique scalloped shape which may appear intimating to make. I don’t know why, but sewing curves can be scary!Not to worry because The Bosal double sided fusible precuts make this project a snap. You can find this pattern and all of your supplies in my online shop which I’ve linked in the Supply and Materials List below.

This project is especially great for creating unique and custom placemats for your home. These are perfect for upcoming holidays and even for every day. Let’s get started and you’ll see just how easy it is to make these scalloped placemats!

This post contains affiliate links for your convenience. ? Read my full disclosure policy here.

Materials List

Scalloped Placemats Pattern by Poorhouse Quilts Designs
Fabric (I used Night of the Nutcracker)
- Front: Gold Metallic
- Border: Mustaches Gold
- Accent: Tree Lights Green
- Back: Leaves Metallic
Scalloped Placemats (set of four)
Teflon Pressing Sheet
Point 2 Point Turner
Fray Check

Basic Sewing Supplies Needed

Sewing Machine (check out my recommendations right here)
Thread
- basic color for construction (I use THIS color)
- matching threads for the accent, border and back
Scissors (I recommend this pair – super sharp and pointy)
Ruler (this one is perfect for this project)
Rotary Cutter and Cutting Mat
- I used this little mat to trim the excess miters
Iron (I use and recommend this brand of iron)
Ironing board (I always use a Wool Pressing Mat)
Spray Starch (I love this brand and scent)
A variety of presser feet for your sewing machine
- Regular presser foot
- Zipper foot
- 1/4″ Seam Presser Foot (this foot is specifically for my machine)

Prepare the Accents and Borders

Preparing the accents and borders for Scalloped Placemats.

Once you’ve gathered your supplies, you’ll take your accent pieces over to the ironing board. Fold the accent pieces lengthwise, wrong sides together. I like to pre-treat mine with spray starch.

Once you have all of your accent pieces starched, folded and ironed, you will pin the accent to the border pieces. Pin all of these in place and then take these units over to the sewing machine.Sew these pieces together using a 1/4 inch seam allowance. I love using my quarter inch seam presser foot for jobs like this.

Once you have that sewn in place you will press the seam allowance towards the border strip, extending the accent beyond the border edge.

Create your Mitered Corners

Creating Mitered Corners for Scalloped Placemats.

Now, If you’re not comfortable with miters, let me show you how easy they actually are. I’m using a 4.5″ x 8.5″ ruler by Creative Grids. This is a really great size ruler for this project. You can see a very obvious 45° angle markings.

Layout your project in the proper orientation, with the accent flange towards the middle. Place one border unit on top of the other, right sides together. Make sure you match the raw and finished edges. I add a pins to keep the units from slipping around.

I place the 45° line along the long raw edge of the stacked border pieces. I’ll take my friction pen and mark my angle. You may find that you need to be very specific with your measurements when making mitered corners. Go ahead and take your time lining up your fabrics and making your mark.

We’re going to sew all corners exactly the same way. Before we cut any of the excess fabric away, we’re going to ensure that we liked the miters. If you don’t like how it looks, then you’ll have to see to seam rip and try again. Once you’re happy with how they turned out you’re going to give yourself a quarter inch seam allowance from the seam and trim away the excess fabric. You’ll do this on all corners.

Press your seems for each mitered corner open. I like to use my Wool Pressing Mat and spray starch to get them nice and flat.

Scalloped Placemat Assembly

Pin the border strips set right sides together to the backing fabric. Stitch around the entire perimeter, using a 1/4 inch seam allowance.

Now we will work on the front part of the placemat.

Attach the double-sided foam fusible scalloped placemat to the wrong side of the Front Fabric. Secure with Clips and take this over to your Wool Pressing Mat. Place your teflon sheet on your pressing surface. Lay your exposed fusible side on top and against your teflon sheet. Make sure that non of the fusible materials are exposed to your pressing mat.Without the Teflon sheet, you may accidentally fuse the opposite side of your project to something that you don’t want it to be fused to.

Once you have your Front exterior fabric fused to your placemat, you’ll take some sharp pointy scissors (I recommend these scissors) and trim away the excess fabric. Follow the edge of the foam scallops and trim out away the excess.

Next, Center the wrong side of the backing unit on the unfused side of your placemat. Your foam placemat should be facing right side up. Clip all around the exterior of the placemat. Flip the placemat over, take your project to the pressing mat, and fuse from the right side of the back. Using the zipper foot, you’r going to sew right along the edge of the foam scallop placemat. Sew around the entire perimeter of the scalloped placemat. When you come to a corner, make sure your needle is in the down position. Lift up your zipper foot, pivot your project, and then put your zipper foot down and continue sewing along the scallops.

Finishing Touches

Once you have everything assembled, you can trim away the excess fabric. I recommend trimming about an eighth inch away from your scallop seams. You’re gonna want to get close enough to where you won’t have excess of bulk when you flip this, but you don’t want to get too close where the seam will fall apart in the wash. Remember, these are placemats and you will be washing these so don’t make your cuts any less than 1/8 inch. Once you have everything trimmed, take your sharp snips and clip the corners. Then take Fray Check and put a drop of Fray Check around each of those snapped crevices.

Now it’s time to flip the project. The magic is happening. Flip the corners first and then continue flipping the rest of the placemat. I love using the Point 2 Point Turner to help get the curves all the way turned out. After your placemat is turned out, you are going to do some top stitching. I changed my presser foot to the regular presser foot, I changed my thread color to match my fabric, and I also changed the stitch length to three. You may change your thread a couple times. Once for the accent top-stitching and again for the border stitching. Remember to match your bobbin thread also! This project is done best when you pay attention to the details.

This is it fun and easy project to do, they make great gifts and perfect for creating your own custom decor for the Holidays and everyday as well!

Checkout my YouTube video tutorial and make a placement set for yourself!

Watch the Video

The Ooo Quilt

August 26, 2020November 14, 202015 Comments

The Ooo Quilt is a modern and fun project! This is another custom quilt I made for a very lucky High School Graduate! The Ooo Quilt was chosen from one of my Missouri Star Quilt Company Block books. This was from Volume 1, issue 4. In the book, this quilt was called “Jump Rings”. We decided to use the school colors (orange and black), so the quilt could also pose as a Halloween Quilt. The school mascot is a Pirate, so the skull and crossbones fabric worked out perfectly! Let me show you all about this quilt so you can make one too!

This post contains affiliate links for your convenience. ? Read my full disclosure policy here.

THE ooo QUILT – MATERIALS LIST

Missouri Star Quilt Company Block Magazine (Volume 1, Issue 4)
Qty (1) Jelly Roll
- I cheated and cut up my own fabric and some specific Kona Solids that my client chose.
Qty (2.5) yards of background fabric (Pewter)
Qty (1.25) yards of border fabric (Carrot)
Qty (.5) yards of binding fabric (Pewter)
Qty (2.5) yards of backing fabric (more Pewter)
Cotton batting (this is the exact batting I used)

THE ooo QUILT – SUPPLY LIST

Sewing Machine with a quarter inch presser foot
Cotton Thread (I recommend Aurifil 50 wt)
Rotary Cutter with sharp blade (no kidding about a sharp blade)
Acrylic Ruler
Cutting Mat
Iron & Ironing Board with a Wool Pressing Mat
Sewing Pins or Wonder Clips

Be sure to check out my Amazon Shop to get all your Quilty supplies!

THE ooo QUILT – ASSEMBLY

Be sure to get yourself a copy of the Block Magazine. In the pattern, you will find all the details for assembly. The process is really simple. Deciding upon the layout was fun. It took me several times to finally settle upon a layout!

I numbered my rows, after I decided on the layout. That really helps me to keep things straight when I get the blocks back to the machine for sewing.

THE 000 QUILT – ALMOST FINISHED!

Once I had my quilt top assembled, I drove to my friend’s house to rent some time on her wonderful long arm quilting machine. Once you use a long arm quilting machine – it’s difficult to go back to quilting on your domestic (just sayin’). I know everyone doesn’t have a long arm option, so you can always use free motion quilting on your domestic. It’s simple! Be sure you have a Darning Foot! There are different kinds, based upon the shaft of your specific machine. I always love my time with my friend’s long arm machine! I would love to have one of my own, but I have NO ROOM! Maybe someday! Until then, I hope to keep Tia Curtis as a close quilty friend! She is so helpful and wonderfully talented! She even took this fun picture of me (with the pile of quilts I accomplished in one day)!

Once I sewed on the binding, I could not wait to take some pictures of this amazing quilt! I convinced my husband to help me take some pictures of the finished quilt. We took a drive to the Powell Gardens for some scenic pictures. It is such a great location! I liked this picture the best! What do you think?

Making The Ooo Quilt was fun and easy! I just loved making it and my customer loved the result! Yay!

If I were ever to make this quilt again, I think I might simply use a Jelly Roll. That would certainly make the process much quicker. I hope you try to make one of these quilts.

Happy Quilting!

Hand Binding a Quilt

August 19, 2020November 14, 20202 Comments

Binding a quilt by hand can be a very relaxing and therapudic process.

Hand Binding a quilt is the final step in finishing your quilt. Before you bind, you will have quilted your quilt. You can see how I quilted this particular quilt right here. Once your quilt is quilted, you will make your binding and attach the binding to your quilt. I’ve demonstrated this step right here.

Now that your binding is attached, all that is left is to hand stitch the binding to your quilt! Be sure to review the materials that I use to bind a quilt by hand and don’t forget to watch the video tutorial at the end of this article!

This post contains affiliate links for your convenience. ? Read my full disclosure policy here.

Thread (I like this brand)
Needles (Click HERE to see which are my favorite))

Thimble (Poke-A-Dots Sticky Thimbles, Clover Leather Coin Thimble, or a Dritz Leather Thimble
Wonder Clips
Small Scissors (I used these scissors in the video)

Threading the Needle

Once you have your supplies ready you need to thread your needle. This particular needle has a larger eye than most needles. Simply push the thread through the eye of the needle. Give yourself about 18 inches of thread. If you get too much more thread than that you will be doing too much work with your arm and binding will get tiresome.

To make a knot, take the end of your thread and twist around your finger like the image above. Move your thumb along your finger, which causes the thread to twist. Pull the thread with your thumb and index finger to form your knot. Magic!

Basic Binding Stitch

To prepare for binding your quilt – take your binding and fold it over, then secure it with clips. You don’t need to clip the whole quilt ( or even a large section) – just a few clips will work just fine. You can move these clips through the progress of your binding.

Start your needle next to the raw edge of your quilt and under the binding fold. Make sure you knot is hidden under the folded binding. Next, make a stitch on your quilt and catch the very edge of the folded binding with your needle. Pull your thread all the way through and continue this simple whip stitch until you get to a corner.

Conquering the Corner

Begin like your basic whip stitch and come out and up through the mitered bottom corner of the top folded binding. Take another stitch from near that same position and come out and up through the corner of the quilt. Make sure that you catch the top binding on your way up and the bottom piece on your way back down. Continue with the basic binding whip stitch through the rest of the side.

The Final Knot

I call this the Loop-de-loop! Simply make a large loop and bring your thread back through that same loop. Take your needle and catch that second thread and pull your needle all the way through until a final knot is formed.

You will need to make this same knot, several times throughout the hand binding process. I mean, 18″ of thread will only take you so far! I think it is much easier to learn this finishing trick and all the other techniques by watching the video.

WATCH THE VIDEO

Hand Binding your Quilt is a very rewarding exercise in creativity! I hope you found this article and video tutorial helpful!

Happy Quilting!

https://www.instagram.com/p/CIOIelHhSVV/

https://www.instagram.com/p/CILjuilBUdR/

https://www.instagram.com/p/CIGaJe6BMQK/

https://www.instagram.com/p/CID1Y6Thc-3/

https://www.instagram.com/p/CIBQgH9BkEH/

https://www.instagram.com/p/CH-rxqvBj56/

https://www.instagram.com/p/CH8G6nrBlBN/

https://www.instagram.com/p/CH5iL5fBbVf/

https://www.instagram.com/p/CH0YmSqBo6m/

Adding Binding to your Quilt

August 5, 2020November 14, 20202 Comments

I love finishing and adding binding to your quilt means we are getting closer to the finish! Let’s dive into the details of adding binding to your quilt and don’t forget to watch the video tutorial at the end!

This post contains affiliate links for your convenience. ? Read my full disclosure policy here.

Materials List

Thread (I like this brand)
Needles (Click HERE to see which are my favorite))

Basic Supply List

Thimble (Poke-A-Dots Sticky Thimbles, Clover Leather Coin Thimble, or a Dritz Leather Thimble
Wonder Clips
Small Scissors (I used these scissors in the video)

Prepare the Binding

Once we have our binding made, we need to prepare to attach it to our quilt.

Take your binding strip and fold it wrong sides together. Give this a good pressing all along the length of the binding strip.

Attach the Binding

To attach the binding to your quilt take the raw edge of your folded binding and clip it to the raw edge of your trimmed quilt. Use clips to secure this to your quilt.

Measure about 6 inches from the end of your binding strip as your sewing starting point.

Next, you will sew your binding to your quilt top. I’m using a seam guide to ensure I have the correct seem allowance. I’m using a quarter inch seam allowance.

Sew the binding onto your quilt and stop just before you come to your first corner.

Turning the Corner

Take your binding strip and fold a diagonal line while bringing the fabric strip up into a perpendicular position to the the already attached binding. Bring the binding strip back down (in the opposite direction) while aligning your fabric to the top and side corner of your quilt.

Position the binding strip a long the raw edge and continue sewing until you get to the next corner.

Repeat this process for each corner of your quilt.

Joining the Binding

Once you get close to the place you started attaching your binding, you will leave about a 12 inch gap.

Now we will join our binding ends together. First we will butt each strip together and make a mark on one of the strips. Cut off the excess fabric on the marked strip. Unless you remember the width of your prepared binding strips, you need to measure the width of the binding,

Take the other binding strip and lay it over the strip you just cut. Measure from where the cut strip starts to the measured width of the binding strip and make another mark. Trim off the excess.

You will want at least 12 inches of un-sewn binding. you’ll take that excess, gather up most of the slack and clip it. Open up your binding strips and pin them together . Take your ruler and mark a sewing line. Sew along the line to join the binding strips.

Remove the clips and pins and lay your joined binding strip against your Quilt top to make sure the length is correct before you cut any excess from your joined a binding.

Open up the seam you just created and then continue attaching the binding to your quilt.

WATCH THE VIDEO

I hope you enjoyed this tutorial and maybe even learned something new!

Until next time! Happy Stitches!

Making Striped Binding for Quilts

June 24, 2020November 14, 20206 Comments

Striped binding for quilts is a very popular choice. More and more modern and contemporary quilters are choosing striped binding, but sometimes struggle with matching the striped lines. In this tutorial, I will show you how to align the stripes on your fabric binding, tips for marking your sewing lines and finally sewing the fabric strips together. Be sure to watch my helpful video at the end of this article.

Learn how to match binding stripes and watch the video tutorial too!

SUPPLY LIST

Thread (I like this brand)
Needles (Click HERE to see which are my favorite))

BASIC SEWING SUPPLIES NEEDED

Thimble (Poke-A-Dots Sticky Thimbles, Clover Leather Coin Thimble, or a Dritz Leather Thimble
Wonder Clips
Small Scissors (I used these scissors in the video)

Aligning the Strips

The fabric I chose for my binding has large stripes, which makes it easier to match. The tricky part is that while some of the stripes are solid, others are designed with a fading effect. To start the aligning process, place the first strip of binding on a surface that can accept a sewing pin. I recommend a Wool Pressing Mat. Lay the first strip right side up. Take the next fabric strip and place it on top of the first, in a perpendicular manner (right sides together). The adjoining fabric strip should be placed with the vast majority of the excess at the top of your perpendicular setting. I auditioned different sections of the joining strip to get the best alignment with the stripes. Still having the majority of the adjoining fabric strip going out the top. Once I found a good match, I secured this position with sewing pins.

Marking the Sewing Line

Using your small acrylic ruler and frixion pen, mark the sewing line. This line will begin at the bottom left intersection and end at the top right intersection. If you have the majority of your adjoining fabric coming out the bottom of your perpendicular setting – you will mark your sewing line from the top left to bottom right. You will essentially be drawing a diagonal line. Be extra careful to make your mark in the appropriate direction, otherwise your next step will not turn out like you planned. Once you’ve marked your sewing line, you can re-adjust your sewing pin placement and prepare for sewing.

Sewing the Strips together

The last step in this process is definitely the easiest! Simply sew the line you just marked. You can back-stitch at the beginning and end of each section if you want. These raw edges will eventually find their way into the seams of a quilt. Continue to join binding strips until you have enough to complete your project. Trim the excess fabric and press your seams open. Repeat the process for each binding strip you add.

WATCH THE VIDEO

Using striped binding is one of my favorite ways to finish a quilt! Stay tuned for an upcoming post and video where I show you how to attach your binding to your quilt!

Until then, Happy Quilting!