Hand Binding a Quilt

Binding a quilt by hand can be a very relaxing and therapudic process.

Hand Binding a quilt is the final step in finishing your quilt. Before you bind, you will have quilted your quilt. You can see how I quilted this particular quilt right here.  Once your quilt is quilted, you will make your binding and attach the binding to your quilt. I’ve demonstrated this step right here.

Now that your binding is attached, all that is left is to hand stitch the binding to your quilt!  Be sure to review the materials that I use to bind a quilt by hand and don’t forget to watch the video tutorial at the end of this article!

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Threading the Needle

Once you have your supplies ready you need to thread your needle.  This particular needle has a larger eye than most needles. Simply push the thread through the eye of the needle. Give yourself about 18 inches of thread. If you get too much more thread than that you will be doing too much work with your arm and binding will get tiresome.

To make a knot, take the end of your thread and twist around your finger like the image above. Move your thumb along your finger, which causes the thread to twist.  Pull the thread with your thumb and index finger to form your knot.  Magic!

Basic Binding Stitch

To prepare for binding your quilt – take your binding and fold it over, then secure it with clips.  You don’t need to clip the whole quilt ( or even a large section) – just a few clips will work just fine.   You can move these clips through the progress of your binding.

Start your needle next to the raw edge of your quilt and under the binding fold.  Make sure you knot is hidden under the folded binding.  Next, make a stitch on your quilt and catch the very edge of the folded binding with your needle.  Pull your thread all the way through and continue this simple whip stitch until you get to a corner.

Conquering the Corner

Begin like your basic whip stitch and come out and up through the mitered bottom corner of the top folded binding.  Take another stitch from near that same position and come out and up through the corner of the quilt. Make sure that you catch the top binding on your way up and the bottom piece on your way back down. Continue with the basic binding whip stitch through the rest of the side.

The Final Knot

I call this the Loop-de-loop! Simply make a large loop and bring your thread back through that same loop. Take your needle and catch that second thread and pull your needle all the way through until a final knot is formed.

You will need to make this same knot, several times throughout the hand binding process.  I mean, 18″ of thread will only take you so far!  I think it is much easier to learn this finishing trick and all the other techniques by watching the video.

Hand Binding your Quilt is a very rewarding exercise in creativity! I hope you found this article and video tutorial helpful!

Happy Quilting!

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Adding Binding to your Quilt

I love finishing and adding binding to your quilt means we are getting closer to the finish!  Let’s dive into the details of adding binding to your quilt and don’t forget to watch the video tutorial at the end!

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Materials List

Basic Supply List

Prepare the Binding

Once we have our binding made, we need to prepare to attach it to our quilt.

Take your binding strip and fold it wrong sides together. Give this a good pressing all along the length of the binding strip. 

Attach the Binding

To attach the binding to your quilt take the raw edge of your folded binding and clip it to the raw edge of your trimmed quilt. Use clips to secure this to your quilt. 

Measure about 6 inches from the end of your binding strip as your sewing starting point. 

Next, you will sew your binding to your quilt top.  I’m using a seam guide to ensure I have the correct seem allowance. I’m using a quarter inch seam allowance. 

Sew the binding onto your quilt and stop just before you come to your first corner. 

Turning the Corner

Take your binding strip and fold a diagonal line while bringing the fabric strip up into a  perpendicular position to the the already attached binding. Bring the binding strip back down (in the opposite direction) while aligning your fabric to the top and side corner of your quilt.

Position the binding strip a long the raw edge and continue sewing until you get to the next corner.  

Repeat this process for each corner of your quilt.

Joining the Binding

Once you get close to the place you started attaching your binding, you will leave about a 12 inch gap. 

Now we will join our binding ends together. First we will butt each strip together and make a mark on one of the strips. Cut off the excess fabric on the marked strip.  Unless you remember the width of your prepared binding strips, you need to measure the width of the binding, 

Take the other binding strip and lay it over the strip you just cut.  Measure from where the cut strip starts to the measured width of the binding strip and make another mark.  Trim off the excess.

You will want at least 12 inches of un-sewn binding.   you’ll take that excess, gather up most of the slack and clip it. Open up your binding strips and pin them together .  Take your ruler and mark a sewing line. Sew along the line to join the binding strips. 

Remove the clips and pins and lay your joined binding strip against your Quilt top to make sure the length is correct before you cut any excess from your joined a binding. 

Open up the seam you just created and then continue attaching the binding to your quilt.

I hope you enjoyed this tutorial and maybe even learned something new!

Until next time! Happy Stitches!

Nicole Moore Blog Post Signature

Making Striped Binding for Quilts

Striped binding for quilts is a very popular choice.  More and more modern and contemporary quilters are choosing striped binding, but sometimes struggle with matching the striped lines.  In this tutorial, I will show you how to align the stripes on your fabric binding, tips for marking your sewing lines and finally sewing the fabric strips together.  Be sure to watch my helpful video at the end of this article.

Learn how to match binding stripes and watch the video tutorial too!



Learn how to match binding stripes and watch the video tutorial too!

Aligning the Strips

The fabric I chose for my binding has large stripes, which makes it easier to match.  The tricky part is that while some of the stripes are solid, others are designed with a fading effect.  To start the aligning process, place the first strip of binding on a surface that can accept a sewing pin.  I recommend a Wool Pressing Mat.  Lay the first strip right side up.  Take the next fabric strip and place it on top of the first, in a perpendicular manner (right sides together).  The adjoining fabric strip should be placed with the vast majority of the excess at the top of your perpendicular setting.  I auditioned different sections of the joining strip to get the best alignment with the stripes.  Still having the majority of the adjoining fabric strip going out the top.  Once I found a good match, I secured this position with sewing pins.

Learn how to match binding stripes and watch the video tutorial too!

Marking the Sewing Line

Using your small acrylic ruler and frixion pen, mark the sewing line.  This line will begin at the bottom left intersection and end at the top right intersection.  If you have the majority of your adjoining fabric coming out the bottom of your perpendicular setting – you will mark your sewing line from the top left to bottom right.  You will essentially be drawing a diagonal line.  Be extra careful to make your mark in the appropriate direction, otherwise your next step will not turn out like you planned.  Once you’ve marked your sewing line, you can re-adjust your sewing pin placement and prepare for sewing.

Learn how to match binding stripes and watch the video tutorial too!

Sewing the Strips together

The last step in this process is definitely the easiest!  Simply sew the line you just marked.  You can back-stitch at the beginning and end of each section if you want.  These raw edges will eventually find their way into the seams of a quilt.  Continue to join binding strips until you have enough to complete your project. Trim the excess fabric and press your seams open. Repeat the process for each binding strip you add.


Learn how to match binding stripes and watch the video tutorial too!

Using striped binding is one of my favorite ways to finish a quilt! Stay tuned for an upcoming post and video where I show you how to attach your binding to your quilt!

Until then, Happy Quilting!

Nicole Moore Blog Post Signature

Cat Faces Quilt

In this tutorial, I will show how I made my Cat Quilt!  This is a whimsical art quilt that incorporates machine appliqué.  I have always been a cat person! I wouldn’t go as far to say that I’m a “Cat Lady” because I only have one cat.    I had so much fun making this truly unique quilt.  Let me show you how I made it!

Learn all about making a Cat Faces Quilt!  See how the finished quilt turns out!  #CatFacesQuilt #RawEdgeApplique #ModernQuilts #SewMuchMoore

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The Cat Faces concept and process is an original idea by Melissa Averinos.  I took a full day class with Melissa, who is a wonderful instructor.  If you ever get a chance to learn from Melissa – I highly recommend her! You can learn more about Melissa RIGHT HERE.

I truly enjoyed getting to know Melissa and learning about her process. This article is just a simple overview of what her full day class covered. Be sure to check out Melissa on her website!

Designing the cats

Line Drawing for Cat Faces Quilt.  This is the first step in the design process for the Cat Faces Quilt.  See how the finished quilt turns out!  #CatFacesQuilt #RawEdgeApplique #ModernQuilts #SewMuchMoore

Melissa instructed us to make simple line drawings of cat faces. As you can see – I will not be doing any tutorials on drawing! LOL! Actually, the simpler the drawing – the easier it is to make out of fabric!

Creating the Cat

The second part of the process was cutting out the fabric and layering the different elements of the cat face.  We initially used a washable glue stick, but later I added Misty Fuse to make the pieces more secure.

Using a temporary adhesive, such as a glue stick, helped me decide how I wanted each cat face to look. Check out the progression of this cat… Just by moving his eyelids – he takes on an entirely different appearance!

Raw Edge Applique

Check out my Cat Faces Quilt and see how I quilted it!
See how the finished quilt turns out!  #CatFacesQuilt #RawEdgeApplique #ModernQuilts #SewMuchMoore

I used my J-350 LongArm Quilting machine to quilt this project.  The 18” throat space gives me loads of room to move the quilt underneath the needle.

Initially I spent way too much time worrying about how I was going to quilt this project.  In the end, I decided to leave the edges raw.  My thinking is that because this is a wall hanging – I wont need to worry too much about the fabric fraying.

This quilting machine is truly wonderful, especially for smaller sewing spaces.  What’s really nice is that the head of the machine is completely removable and can be attached to a quilting frame.  I’m sure that when my kids are all grown and finished with college, I will be able to take over one of their bedrooms!

I used my open toe foot and also my ruler foot. I switched feet when it made sense and I was happy with the results. I don’t even know why I spent so much time worrying about how to quilt this quilt!


Be sure to watch my video tutorial and checkout some of the tips in action!

Stay tuned for my next installment of this quilt. I will be using striped binding to finish it off! Be sure to sign up for my weekly Newsletter and you won’t miss a post! You can signup below!

Until next time – Happy Sewing!


Nicole Moore Blog Post Signature

DIY Travel Pillow Cases

With warmer weather quickly approaching, now is a perfect time to make a few DIY Travel Pillow Cases!  This fun and easy method will allow you to make one for each person in your family.  They make great gifts too!  Let me show you how!

Make a Travel Sized Pillow Case! This fun and easy method is quick and simple! Perfect for the beginner! Let me show you how! #sewing #TravelPillowCase #PillowcaseTutorial #RoadTrips #FreePattern #GiftIdeas #Sew #ForKids #HowToMake #VideoTutorial #StepByStep #Easy #Simple #SpringBreak #SummerVacation #SewMuchMoore #SewMuchMooreInStore


Get your cutting measurements!

Option 1: Download for free.  If you sign up for my Weekly Newsletter, you will get the cutting measurements and written directions for free!  If you are already a subscriber – no worries!  You won’t be double subscribed!

Option 2: Purchase this PDF pattern

Use this link to purchase the fabric cutting instructions. You’ll be emailed a download link for a file that references the instructions in this tutorial and provides the cutting measurements for this pattern.  You’ll also be able to purchase this file in my shop.

This post contains affiliate links for your convenience. ? Read my full disclosure policy here.

Make a Travel Sized Pillow Case! This fun and easy method is quick and simple! Perfect for the beginner! Let me show you how! #sewing #TravelPillowCase #PillowcaseTutorial #RoadTrips #FreePattern #GiftIdeas #Sew #ForKids #HowToMake #VideoTutorial #StepByStep #Easy #Simple #SpringBreak #SummerVacation #SewMuchMoore #SewMuchMooreInStore

Here are the materials you will need to make a Travel Pillow Case:

DIY Travel Pillow Case – Materials List
  • Pillow Case Pattern
  • Qty (1) 12” x 16” Pillow Form
  • ½ Yard of Fabric for your Main Print (*Royals Fabric)
  • ¼ Yard of Fabric for your Pillowcase Band (French Blue)
  • 1/8 Yard of Fabric for your Pillowcase Trim (White)
DIY Travel Pillow Case – Basic Supplies

Download my pattern for your cutting instructions and have a great time making your DIY Travel Pillow Case!  If you like video instructions; check out this video, which follows the same steps.  Please note that the video is showing you how to make a full-sized pillowcase.  The steps for the DIY Travel Pillow Case size are the same (just smaller).

Let me share a few pictures of some great group sewing events we had.  All the participants made their own DIY Travel Pillow Case!  Aren’t they fabulous??!?

Make a Travel Sized Pillow Case! This fun and easy method is quick and simple! Perfect for the beginner! Let me show you how! #sewing #TravelPillowCase #PillowcaseTutorial #RoadTrips #FreePattern #GiftIdeas #Sew #ForKids #HowToMake #VideoTutorial #StepByStep #Easy #Simple #SpringBreak #SummerVacation #SewMuchMoore #SewMuchMooreInStore


Make a Travel Sized Pillow Case! This fun and easy method is quick and simple! Perfect for the beginner! Let me show you how! #sewing #TravelPillowCase #PillowcaseTutorial #RoadTrips #FreePattern #GiftIdeas #Sew #ForKids #HowToMake #VideoTutorial #StepByStep #Easy #Simple #SpringBreak #SummerVacation #SewMuchMoore #SewMuchMooreInStore

I hope you make lots and lots of these fun DIY Travel Pillow Cases!

Happy Sewing!

Nicole Moore Blog Post Signature

CHECK OUT these fun sewing projects!

DIY Cell Phone Charging Station

The Kristine ID Wallet







How to get PERFECT Seam Allowance

In this tutorial, I will show you several different ways to achieve a perfect seam allowance for your sewing projects.  

Using my Juki TL2010Q sewing machine, I will introduce you to several different tools that will get you sewing like a pro!

In this tutorial, I will show you several different ways to achieve a perfect seam allowance for your sewing projects.  Watch the FREE video tutorial and start sewing like a PRO! #SeamAllowance #SewingSkills

This post contains affiliate links for your convenience. ? Read my full disclosure policy here.

Tools for Seam Allowance

Washi Tape

The 1st tool is something that you may have already at your house.  Washi Tape is an easily available and inexpensive product.  Simply place washi tape on the faceplate of your sewing machine.  Usually, there are seam lines that are already embossed on your faceplate.  To get started you can align your washi tape at the quarter-inch marking.  Once you’ve aligned your tape, against your desired seam allowance marking, you can simply position the edge of your fabric against the edge of the washi tape.  This technique is quick and easy and can provide excellent results!  I use a seam guide to ensure that my seam allowance is correct!

Magnetic Seam Guide

In this tutorial, I will show you several different ways to achieve a perfect seam allowance for your sewing projects.  Watch the FREE video tutorial and start sewing like a PRO! #SeamAllowance #SewingSkills

The second tool I want to show you is the Magnetic Seam Guide.  This gadget has a strong magnet on the back and will hold into place on your sewing machine faceplate. To use this tool, simply locate your desired seam allowance and align the edge of the magnetic seam guide to the edge of the seam allowance line. (What makes the magnetic seam guide better than washi tape is the raised edge of the guide.  It is much easier to hold the fabric edge next to the magnetic seam guide.) You can easily move the guide further in or further out – depending upon the seam allowance you might need for different projects.

Quarter Inch Presser Foot

In this tutorial, I will show you several different ways to achieve a perfect seam allowance for your sewing projects.  Using a 1/4

One of my favorite ways to get a great seam allowance is by using a Juki Brand quarter-inch presser foot. While this foot doesn’t come standard with the Juki TL2010Q; it is easily purchased aftermarket. These feet are super simple to switch out. You just remove the side screw and replace the foot. Once you have the new foot in the place you can just begin sewing.  This foot is specifically for a quarter-inch seam allowance. This specialty sewing foot is particularly great for making quilt blocks.  

Marking a Sewing Line

In this tutorial, I will show you several different ways to achieve a perfect seam allowance for your sewing projects.  Using a Frixion Pen and an Acrylic Ruler is just one of the ways to help you create perfect seam allowance.  Watch the FREE video tutorial and start sewing like a PRO! #SeamAllowance #SewingSkills

One of the last ways to sew with perfect seam allowance is by marking your sewing lines. Whenever I mark my sewing lines, I like to use a Frixion Pen.  These pens are super useful. The magic is when you apply heat. You simply mark on your fabric and then press with your hot iron and the marks magically disappear.  Now, I will tell you that I only use these pens for marking my sewing lines.  I never use these in an area that won’t be hidden by stitches or a seam allowance.  To mark your sewing line, just lay your acrylic ruler over the edge of your fabric.  Draw your line, right against the edge of your ruler. Sewing lines are also very helpful if you are new to sewing and need that extra bit of visual help.

Be sure to watch my video tutorial, which shows you how to use each of the above tools mentioned.  

Watch the Video

In this tutorial, I will show you several different ways to achieve a perfect seam allowance for your sewing projects.  Watch the FREE video tutorial and start sewing like a PRO! #SeamAllowance #SewingSkills

I hope this article gave you some ideas and help in order to achieve a perfect seam allowance. Be sure to check out my Facebook Group and Instagram Stories for more inspiration!

Happy Stitching!

Nicole Moore Blog Post Signature

Juki TL-2010Q Sewing Machine

This year, my birthday present is this Juki TL-2010Q Sewing Machine!  I have been wanting this Juki model for many years.  So many of my sewing friends have RAVED about this machine, so I called up my local JUKI dealer to see if they had one in stock.  They had one in stock so I decided to give it a test drive.  Well, it only took me a couple of hours to decide that I had to have this machine for myself.  Let me tell you all about my new Juki TL-2010Q!

The best sewing machine is the Juki TL-2010Q!  Learn more right here!

This post contains affiliate links for your convenience. ? Read my full disclosure policy here.

Whenever I get something new, I want to jump right in.  I want to ignore the manual and the registration paperwork and just get to play with my new toy! That’s normal, right?   However, this time I had to reference the manual right from the beginning.  I needed to know how to load the bobbing and use the needle threader.  I also wanted to learn more about the automatic thread cutter and other great features this machine offers.  While I was reviewing the manual, I went ahead and got online to register my machine.  I felt all grown up and responsible!  And now for the fun part!  Let’s take a look at all the bells and whistles of my Juki TL2010Q

Let’s dive into this bag of accessories!  This machine comes with four different feet: 1) Regular Pressing foot, 2) Adjustable Zipper foot, 3) Walking Foot, and 4) Free-Motion Quilting foot.  We will talk more about using this variety of sewing feet in a future post.  Be sure to check the bottom of this post for the list.

Installing the Extention Table

This machine comes standard with a knee lift and extension table.  I have grown used to and LOVE my knee lift on my Juki DU1181n.  I was so pleased to learn this machine has that option also.  You certainly don’t have to add this accessory if you don’t want to.  The extension table is an amazing offering with this machine.  The legs easily open and can adjust.  The extension table just slides right into place without any problems.

Winding the bobbin

Raise the support rod and set your thread onto the spool pin  Take your thread to the rod just above the spool.  Thread the bobbin winder guide.  Pass the thread through the hole of the bobbin.  Place the bobbin on the winding shaft there is a little metal notch you need to line up.  Press the bobbin presser.  Start winding the bobbin.  Trim the excessive thread.  This will stop automatically when it fills up.  Make sure the needle is in the up position. Open the slide plate and take out the bobbin case.  Put the bobbin into the bobbin case so that the bobbin runs clockwise.  Passing the thread through the slit of the bobbin case, continue passing it under the thread tension spring, and pull out the thread about 4 inches from the bobbin case.   Insert the bobbin case fully into the hook, and close the bobbin case latch. 

Threading the Machine

Pass the thread through the thread guide.  Pass the thread through the space between the two tension disks on the sub tension knob. Next, pass the thread through the clearance between the two thread tension disks on the thread tension dial.  Follow the diagram through the hooks and take-up lever.  Next, you will pass the thread through the hook, just above the needle threading mechanism and also the pig-tail hook on the needle bar.

Using the Needle Threader

Lower the presser foot and lower the needle threader lever.  Bring the needle to the top position.  Pass the needle thread from the opposite side to this side, and move the thread on the right-hand side until it comes in contact with the guide.  When the finger is taken off, the thread is caught in the hook and passed through the needle’s eye.  Magic!  Draw out the thread about 4 inches.

This machine also has an automatic thread trimmer, which is either activated by a touch of a button or tapping your heal on the foot pedal.  There is also a sewing speed control with speeds up to 1500 stitches per minute.  You can also set a “stop position for your needle”.  When you stop sewing, the machine will come to an accurate stop with the needle in the down position.

To get your own Juki TL-2010Q, visit my friends at Quilter’s HQ.  They are a family-owned business and have wonderful customer service.  Be sure to use my code: SMMIS and receive a free magnetic seam guide with your machine!

Watch the video

Sometimes, with a new machine – it can be difficult to know which thread to use for a certain material type or which needle to use for a particular thread.

Be sure to stay tuned for additional posts about my Juki TL-2010Q.  Here is what I have planned:

  • Quilt Piecing
  • Free Motion Quilting
  • Using the Walking Foot
  • Maintenance Tips

Please let me a comment to let me know if you already have this sewing machine and what you love about it!

How to Face a Quilt

Facing a Quilt is a wonderful way to finish your quilt!  After all the work of designing and piecing – finishing is very exciting!  There are many ways to finish a quilt.  In this tutorial, I will show you how to add facing to your quilt as an excellent way to finish!  Don’t forget to watch the video tutorial too!

This post contains affiliate links for your convenience. ? Read my full disclosure policy here.

Quilt Facing SUPPLY LIST

  • Quilted (unbound) quilt top – any size will work
  • Qty (4) squares of fabric- measuring 4″ x 4″
  • Qty (4) facing strips – cut two WOF strips measuring 2.5″ wide and then cut these in half


This art quilt consists of several class samples from a Modern Quilting Class I took with my local guild last summer.   Besides a quilted top, you will also need your corner pieces (which can also come in handy for hanging your quilt, four facing fabric strips that are at least the length of each side of your quilt top.  You can use sewing pins or clips.  I prefer clips for this technique, so that is what I will use in this tutorial.  You will also need a pair of scissors.  

Sewing the Facing

Once we have all the facing and corner pieces attached to our quilt top, we will sew these in place.  Simply start at one corner and sew the entire perimeter of your quilt, using a one quarter inch seam allowance.  I love using a sewing stiletto to help keep the fabric in place while I’m sewing.  This is especially useful when you want to keep your fingers away from the needle.  While you are sewing, when you reach a corner of the quilt, ensure that your needle is in the down position – lift up your presser foot and pivot your quilt.  Continue sewing around the entire perimeter of the quilt

Once you have all the facing and corner pieces secured with your stitching, you will take just a moment to press your facing strips out. I love using my Wool Pressing Mat.  The next step is to sew a line of stitches along the facing strips, just about an eighth of an inch away from your seam.  The purpose of this step is to help the facing strips easily fold to the back of the quilt. 

Using your scissors, snip away each of the corners.  Be careful not to snip past the diagonal line of stitching you made earlier.  Making these little snips will reduce the bulk in the corners when you turn the facing right side out.  When turning your facing right side out, simply flip out each corner of the quilt.  The raw edges of the facing strips will be hidden behind the facing corners.  I used a chopstick to help my corners along.

Quilt Facing Finishing Touches

Next, we will hand-bind the facing strips to the back of your quilt.  I found the easiest way to do this is to clip the  facing strip into position.  You can even move the corner to the back so you can reach the raw edge of each strip to hand stitch this down.  Once your binding is finished, you can add a dowel rod to the insides in case you wanted to hang your quilt on the wall.

The finished Faced Quilt!

I really like the way facing a quilt does not take away from the original design of this quilt.  Regular binding would have districted the vision of this mini quilt and taken away from all the soft curves.  I hope you enjoyed and learned from this tutorial.  Be sure to watch the video tutorial!


Let me know, in the comments below, if you have ever tried facing a quilt.  I love hearing from you!  Happy Quilting!

Nicole Moore Blog Post Signature

I love my Juki Miyabi J-350 QVP

Pleated Face Mask Tutorial

Making a pleated face mask is a pretty easy thing to do!  There isn’t a special pattern template you need, you don’t really need to worry about sizing and my version has you using fabric ties instead of elastic.  Follow along in this tutorial as we make a pleated face mask with a flexible nose wire and filter pocket!  Let’s get started!

This post will contain affiliate links for your convenience. ? Read my full disclosure policy here.

Pleated Face Mask Materials List

  • 1/3 yard of 100% Cotton Fabric (I used an out of print Wonder Woman Fabric and this Pewter fabric for my straps)
    • Mask = Qty (1) 8″ x 16″
    • Fabric Ties = Qty (2) 1.75″ x WOF (width of fabric – usually 42-44 inches)
  • Pleater Board (this is a handy tool to help speed up mask production)
    • You can get instructions to make your own Pleater Board right HERE
  • Flexible Nose Wire
  • Filter
    • This mask has a pocket filter, so you can choose whatever filter you want to add.  To learn more about what the CDC recommends – read this article.


making a pleated face mask

Cut your fabric, according to the measurements I noted in the material list above.  Serge the short ends of the mask fabric.  You can learn more about the serger that I used right HERE.

Juki 2000QVP

If you don’t have a serger – you can simply hem the edges over by 1/4″.  Fold the mask, RST (right sides together), and make a one and a half inches sewing line from each end – leaving a 5-inch opening.  Fold each serged edge down, WRT (wrong sides together) and press.  Turn the mask right side out and press so that the opening is positioned one inch down from the top.  Make a single line of stitches, just 1/8″ above the top fold of the mask opening.  Work your mask through the pleater board.  To watch the tutorial for the pleater board right HERE.

making fabric ties

Cut your fabric, according to the measurements I noted in the material list above.  I used a 7/8″ (25mm) bias tape tool (optional but helpful).

  • I like to use a pin to help feed the strip of fabric through the large end of the bias tape tool so that when it comes out the small end, the sides are folded to the center.
  • Move the strip of fabric through the tool, pressing it as it comes out to set the folds.  This wool pressing mat really comes in handy for tasks like this!


If you don’t have a bias tape tool, you can fold the strip in half lengthwise and press. Open it and carefully press the long edges to the center one at a time.

  • Fold the strip in half again so it is approximately 1/2’’ wide and press.
  • Sew down the length of the fabric tie to secure it.

If possible (depending on your sewing machine), move your needle all the way to one side so that the fabric strip is over one of the feed dogs. This will help it move smoothly through the machine.

Completing the Pleated Face Mask

Take your mask piece and align the raw edges with the middle of the folded fabric ties.  Secure the mask to the fabric ties with clips and sew the fabric ties closed while capturing the mask along the way.  I used my Industrial Sewing Machine to finish my mask.  You certainly don’t need a workhorse machine like this to make a simple face mask, but since I have made over 150 masks – my Industrial Sewing Machine has come in quite handy!


Whichever style mask you decide to make, it is important to remember that handmade face masks will not prevent someone from becoming infected with COVID-19. They are approved by the CDC to be used as a last resort when all other PPE options have run out.  Health providers experiencing shortages, who have handmade masks, can use them on lower-risk patients allowing N95s to be reserved for emergency cases. This post is in response to pleas from hospitals, first responders and essential workers for handmade masks.

It is important that you wash your hands and practice social distancing.  If you are a healthcare worker, first responder or essential worker – God Bless and protect you!

If I can add you to my prayer list, please leave a comment below!

Just keep sewing!

Nicole Moore Blog Post Signature

DIY Pleater Board for Face Masks


DIY Pleater Board for Face Masks

Have you been making the pleated face masks?  Are you getting frustrated with how your pleats are turning out?  Does making pleated face masks seem to take a long time?  That’s what I was thinking until I realized that a pleater board would make this process so much more efficient!  Take a look at my video tutorial for a DIY Pleater Board, download the measurements and start making masks, more efficiently!

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Pleater board Materials list

At the beginning of the Corona Virus pandemic, and during our Stay at Home order, I was making a pleated face mask and became frustrated with making pleats.  I was making large batches of face masks for the healthcare industry, first responders and also for our local nursing homes.  I wanted to make lots of masks and I wanted to make them as efficiently as possible.  I was becoming frustrated because my pleats were turning out uneven and it was taking longer than I thought necessary to pleat a single mask.

I was chatting with a fellow sewist and she told me that I should use a pleater board for my pleats.  To be honest, I had never heard of a pleater board before.  I am a novice at garment sewing and this was not a term that I recognized.  I did some research and quickly learned that this tool would be a GAME CHANGER for making pleated masks.

I enlisted the help of my friend’s husband, who is an engineer.  This guy is a regular smarty pants and made me a prototype of my first pleater board.  I loved it and used it and even tweaked it to make it perfect enough to share it with you all!

Before you watch my quick video tutorial, I will tell you that my un-pleated mask measures 8 inches wide and 7 inches tall.  I know that there are a ton of pleated face mask tutorials out there.  I made my board work specifically with my pleated face mask measurements.  You can certainly try my pleater board with a different mask pattern – but do so knowing that your results may vary.  Just sayin’


This video tutorial shows you how to assemble and use your DIY Pleater Board.  Be sure to download the DIY Pleater Board Measurements and gather your materials.  This project will only take a little bit of time, but save you LOADS of time with your mask making efforts!

I am so proud of how valuable the sewist has become, in these difficult times.  If you are making masks for yourself and/or others – I applaud you!  Thanks for making a difference!  I truly hope this little face mask hack will help you help others.

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How to make a Handmade Face Mask